Dino Family – Free Crochet Dinosaur Pattern in Two Sizes

Dino Family - typographic cover card

One dinosaur pattern, two sizes: a 30 cm plush dino with four legs and a spiked back, and a 12 cm baby in the same construction. Both are worked in plush yarn on a 3.5 mm hook, with the eyes and the bow on a 2 mm hook in a thinner cotton.

What makes this pattern worth following is the order. The tail and the four legs are crocheted first, then joined into the body as it grows — round 4 picks up six stitches of each leg, round 5 goes back around the outside of each leg, and round 9 catches the tail the same way. Nothing is sewn on afterwards. The result is a body with no seams at the joints, which matters more in plush yarn than anywhere else, because a seam in plush always shows.

The neck is its own trick: the body is closed with an opening left in round 20, the neck is crocheted into that opening, and a tube of synthetic insulation is pushed into it so the head does not loll.

Every round of both dinosaurs is written out below, plus the muzzle, eyes, spikes, spots and bow.

Finished crochet dinosaur with spikes and spots
30 cm, with the baby beside it.

What you need

  • Body: plush yarn, 120 m per 100 g — dark green for the main colour, light green for the sole, tummy, muzzle and spots, orange for the spikes, white or ivory for the claws; 1.5 to 2 skeins of main colour, less than half a skein of the others
  • Face and bow: cotton, about 330 m per 100 g, in orange, black and white
  • Hooks: 3.5 to 4 mm for the body, 2 to 2.5 mm for the eyes and bow
  • Structure: synthetic insulation or dense fabric for the neck tube, a fabric patch to hold it, fibre fill
  • Notions: large sewing needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors

Ratio rule: the body yarn should be twice as thick as the eye yarn, and the eye hook 1.5 mm smaller than the body hook.

Abbreviations

MR magic ring, CH chain, SS slip stitch, SC single crochet, HDC half double crochet, DC double crochet, PS puff stitch (a DC3TOG cluster), INC two stitches in one, DEC two single crochet together through the front loops, BLO back loops only.

US terms. The number in brackets at the end of a round is the total stitch count.

The big dinosaur: tail

Dark green.

  • R1: 6 SC in MR
  • R2–3: 6 SC — 2 rounds
  • R4: 2 SC, 2 INC, 2 SC (8)
  • R5: DEC, SC, 2 INC, SC, DEC (8)
  • R6: 3 SC, 2 INC, 3 SC (10)
  • R7: DEC, 2 SC, 2 INC, 2 SC, DEC (10)
  • R8: 4 SC, 2 INC, 4 SC (12)
  • R9: DEC, 3 SC, 2 INC, 3 SC, DEC (12)
  • R10: 3 SC, (SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC (15)
  • R11: 15 SC
  • R12: 3 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC (18)
  • R13: 18 SC
  • R14: 3 SC, (3 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC (21)
  • R15: 21 SC
  • R16: 3 SC, (4 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC (24)

Fasten off. If the start of the round drifts to the right, work a shifting stitch to bring the marker back into line.

The big dinosaur: legs (make 4)

Start in light green.

  • R1: 7 SC in MR
  • R2: 7 INC (14)
  • R3: (SC, INC) ×7 (21)

Change to dark green.

  • R4: in BLO, 7 SC; (change to white, PS, change to dark green, 2 SC) ×3; 5 SC (21)
  • R5: 5 SC, (DEC, 2 SC) ×2, DEC, 6 SC (18)
  • R6–8: 18 SC — 3 rounds

Fasten off.

The big dinosaur: body and head

Start in light green. The legs and the tail are joined as you go, and you stuff as you work.

  • R0: ch 23, then work in a spiral, without a turning chain or a slip stitch, as an oval
  • R1: start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 21 SC, 3 SC in the last chain, then along the other side 20 SC, INC (46)
  • R2: INC, 20 SC, 3 INC, 20 SC, 2 INC (52)
  • R3: SC, INC, 20 SC, (SC, INC) ×3, 20 SC, (SC, INC) ×2 (58)

Before round 4, put a marker in the middle of the top of the oval, and mark four areas of 6 SC for the legs — 11 SC apart on the sides, 6 SC at the top of the oval. Mark 6 SC on each leg on the side that will attach. The body marker stays at the back and the legs turn forward, claws facing front.

  • R4: 3 SC, 6 SC with the first leg, 11 SC, 6 SC with the second leg, 6 SC, 6 SC with the third leg, 11 SC, 6 SC with the fourth leg, 3 SC (58)

Change to dark green.

  • R5: 3 SC, 12 SC around the outside of the first leg, 11 SC, 12 SC around the outside of the second leg, 6 SC, 12 SC around the outside of the third leg, 11 SC, 12 SC around the outside of the fourth leg, 3 SC (82)
  • R6–8: 82 SC — 3 rounds

To avoid a gap where the body meets the outside of a leg, work the first SC of the outside contour together with the SC already worked on the inside of that leg as a DEC, in light green. Sewing the gap closed on the wrong side works too.

Mark the tail attachment: 6 SC exactly in the middle at the back, between the legs. Move the marker to the next SC after the left marker of that area, and mark 6 SC on the tail so that the bend faces up.

  • R9: 76 SC, 6 SC with the tail (82)
  • R10: 76 SC, 18 SC around the outside of the tail (94)
  • R11–12: 94 SC — 2 rounds
  • R13: 76 SC, (DEC, 6 SC) ×2, DEC (91)
  • R14: 91 SC
  • R15: 76 SC, DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC (88)
  • R16: 88 SC
  • R17: 76 SC, (DEC, 3 SC) ×2, DEC (85)
  • R18: 85 SC
  • R19: 76 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, SC, DEC (82)

Mark 18 SC at the middle front — that is the neck area — and count 32 SC from the right marker to place another.

  • R20: 6 SC, DEC, 24 SC, ch 6, skip the 18 marked stitches, 22 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC (61 plus 6 chains)
  • R21: 5 SC, DEC, 24 SC, 6 SC on the chain, 21 SC, DEC, 5 SC, DEC (64)
  • R22: 5 SC, DEC, 11 SC, (5 SC, DEC) ×3, 11 SC, (5 SC, DEC) ×2 (58)
  • R23: 4 SC, DEC, 11 SC, (4 SC, DEC) ×3, 11 SC, (4 SC, DEC) ×2 (52)
  • R24: 3 SC, DEC, 11 SC, (3 SC, DEC) ×3, 11 SC, (3 SC, DEC) ×2 (46)
  • R25: 2 SC, DEC, 11 SC, (2 SC, DEC) ×3, 11 SC, (2 SC, DEC) ×2 (40)
  • R26: SC, DEC, 11 SC, (SC, DEC) ×3, 11 SC, (SC, DEC) ×2 (34)
  • R27: 17 DEC (17)
  • R28: 8 DEC, leaving the last SC unworked (9)

Close the hole, fasten off and hide the end inside.

Chart of the body and leg join counts
82 stitches at the widest.

The neck

Go back to the opening left in round 19 and attach the thread at the left marker, leaving a long end to sew the side gap later. Do not stuff the neck yet.

  • R20: 18 SC on the body, SC in the loop where the body turns into the chain, 6 SC on the chain, SC in the loop where the chain returns to the body (26)
  • R21: 16 SC, 5 DEC (21)
  • R22–33: 21 SC — 12 rounds (11 rounds for a girl)

Cut a square of synthetic insulation one and a half times the length of the neck, roll it into a tube and fix it with a fabric patch. Stuff the base of the neck well, push the tube in so that it starts slightly below the neck and extends past the last round by about half the length of the head, then stuff around the tube. Fleece or felt works instead of insulation, and a wire frame wrapped in a fabric patch can replace it entirely if you are working in cotton.

The head

Move the marker to the middle of the back of the neck.

  • R34: 4 SC, 12 INC, 5 SC (33)
  • R35: 4 SC, (SC, INC) ×12, 5 SC (45)
  • R36: 17 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×3, 19 SC (48)
  • R37–48: 48 SC — 12 rounds
  • R49: (6 SC, DEC) ×6 (42)
  • R50: (5 SC, DEC) ×6 (36)
  • R51: (4 SC, DEC) ×6 (30)
  • R52: (3 SC, DEC) ×6 (24)
  • R53: (2 SC, DEC) ×6 (18)
  • R54: (SC, DEC) ×6 (12)
  • R55: 6 DEC (6)

Close the hole and hide the end inside the head.

The muzzle

Light green.

  • R0: ch 6, worked in a spiral
  • R1: start in the 2nd chain: 4 SC, 3 SC in the last chain, on the other side 3 SC, INC (12)
  • R2: INC, 3 SC, 3 INC, 3 SC, 2 INC (18)
  • R3: SC, INC, 3 SC, (SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC, (SC, INC) ×2 (24)
  • R4: 2 SC, INC, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×2 (30)
  • R5: 3 SC, INC, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC, (3 SC, INC) ×2 (36)
  • R6–7: 36 SC — 2 rounds

Fasten off leaving a long end, stuff, and sew the muzzle over rounds 34 to 42.

The eyes

Black cotton on a 2 mm hook.

  • R1: 6 SC in MR
  • R2: 6 INC (12)
  • R3: (SC, INC) ×6 (18)
  • R4: (2 SC, INC) ×4, change to orange, do not cut the black, (2 SC, INC) ×2 (24)

Work a SS, cut the orange and take it to the wrong side. Attach white to the first orange SC and work the left eye: ch 3, DC in the same stitch, DC, 2 HDC, 4 SC, SS. For the right eye: SS, 4 SC, 2 HDC, 2 DC, ch 3, SS in the same stitch. Then attach black to the last black SC and work one round of SC around the whole eye, with 3 SC in each of the two lower corners.

Sew the eyes to the head over rounds 41 to 45, 10 SC apart, then embroider the eyebrows, the eyelashes (for a girl), the nostrils and the smile in black. Add a white glare to each eye.

Spikes

Orange. Make 8 full spikes and 1 without round 3, or make them all shorter. Turn at the end of each row and work a turning chain.

  • R0: ch 2
  • R1: 5 SC starting in the 2nd chain from the hook
  • R2: SC, INC, 3 SC in one stitch, INC, SC (9)
  • R3: 2 SC, INC, SC, 3 SC in one stitch, SC, INC, 2 SC (12)

Fasten off leaving a long end for sewing.

Spots

Light green, closed into a ring and joined at the first and last stitch.

  • Small: 6 SC in MR
  • Medium: 8 SC in MR
  • Large: 6 SC in MR, then 6 INC (12)

A boy takes 6 small, 4 medium and 2 large; a girl takes 7 large, 5 medium and 5 small. Sew them to the body and the head.

The bow

Pink, two pieces.

  • R1: 6 SC in MR
  • R2: 6 INC (12)
  • R3: 12 SC

Ch 1, fold the piece in half and crochet the sides together with 6 SC. Make two, sew them to each other with 2 or 3 stitches in the middle, wrap the centre with thread, tie and sew to the head.

Map of the spike and spot sizes
12 stitches, three rows.

The baby dinosaur

Lower legs (make 2)

Start in light pink; stuff only the bottom of the leg.

  • R1: 7 SC in MR
  • R2: 7 INC (14)

Change to pink.

  • R3: in BLO, 4 SC; (change to white, PS, change to pink, SC) ×3; 4 SC (14)
  • R4: (3 SC, DEC) ×2, 4 SC (12)
  • R5–10: 12 SC — 5 rounds

Ch 1, fold in half and join the sides with 6 SC.

Upper legs (make 2)

Start in light pink.

  • R1: 6 SC in MR
  • R2: 6 INC (12)

Change to pink.

  • R3: in BLO, 3 SC; (change to white, PS, change to pink, SC) ×3; 3 SC (12)
  • R4: 2 SC, (DEC, 3 SC) ×2 (10)
  • R5–10: 10 SC — 5 rounds

Ch 1, fold and join with 5 SC.

Tail

  • R1: 6 SC in MR
  • R2–3: 6 SC — 2 rounds
  • R4: 3 INC, 3 SC (9)
  • R5: 9 SC; move the marker 2 SC to the left
  • R6: 3 INC, 6 SC (12)
  • R7: (SC, INC) ×3, 6 SC (15)
  • R8: (2 SC, INC) ×3, 6 SC (18)
  • R9: (3 SC, INC) ×3, 6 SC (21)

Fasten off leaving a long end to sew.

Body

  • R1: 8 SC in MR
  • R2: 8 INC (16)
  • R3: (SC, INC) ×8 (24)
  • R4: (2 SC, INC) ×8 (32)
  • R5: 5 SC, 6 SC with the first lower leg, 10 SC, 6 SC with the second lower leg, 5 SC (32)
  • R6: (6 SC, DEC) ×4 (28)
  • R7: 28 SC
  • R8: (5 SC, DEC) ×4 (24)
  • R9: 5 SC, 5 SC with the first upper leg, 4 SC, 5 SC with the second upper leg, 5 SC (24)
  • R10: (4 SC, DEC) ×4 (20)
  • R11: 20 SC
  • R12: (3 SC, DEC) ×4 (16)
  • R13: 16 SC
  • R14: (2 SC, DEC) ×4 (12)
  • R15–20: 12 SC — 6 rounds

Work a few extra SC to the side of the neck, stuff well, then ch 1, fold and join the sides with 6 SC.

Head

  • R0: ch 6, in a spiral
  • R1: 4 SC starting in the 2nd chain, 3 SC in the last chain, on the other side 3 SC, INC (12)
  • R2: INC, 3 SC, 3 INC, 3 SC, 2 INC (18)
  • R3: SC, INC, 3 SC, (SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC, (SC, INC) ×2 (24)
  • R4: 2 SC, INC, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×3, 3 SC, (2 SC, INC) ×2 (30)
  • R5–6: 30 SC — 2 rounds

Change to pink.

  • R7: (DEC, 13 SC) ×2 (28)
  • R8: 28 SC
  • R9: (DEC, 12 SC) ×2 (26)
  • R10: 26 SC
  • R11: (DEC, 11 SC) ×2 (24)
  • R12: (2 SC, DEC) ×6 (18)
  • R13: (SC, DEC) ×6 (12)
  • R14: 6 DEC (6)

Close, and embroider the face. Sew the head in a straight line between rounds 9 and 10, and the tail over rounds 3 to 7.

Baby spikes

Yellow. Attach the thread to the head and work continuously to the end of the body and the tail: ch 2, 2 HDC in the same stitch, 3 SS, and repeat to the end. Blush the cheeks with pastel if you like.

List of the neck and head rounds
26 then 21.

Notes

The hardest part of this pattern is round 4, where four legs go in at once. Mark everything first: the four 6-stitch areas on the body, and the 6 stitches on each leg. If the marker at the back is not exactly centred, the legs will sit crooked and no amount of stuffing will fix it.

Plush yarn hides stitch definition, so the shifting stitch after each leg is not fussiness — it keeps the increases over the legs aligned with the ones on the body.

The neck tube is what makes the head hold up. Without it the head tips forward within a day, because plush fibre fill compresses under its own weight.

More big toys: WALL-E is the cardboard-structured one, Lily Bunny is the 35 cm doll, and Anglerfish SAM is the wired one. Everything is on the patterns page.

Pattern source: Dino Family.

The smallest sea creature here is Grumpy Mini Octopus, 5 cm and eight arms from 2 oz of yarn.

Where Dino Family joins its legs into the body, Ollie the Giraffe joins its head to a neck with a chain of five.

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