Holiday Crochet Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket, 2019. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to me, Kristi Bergin-Smith and The Burgundy Basket with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
Materials:
Assorted. I have written most of these patterns with "stash busting" in mind. I have a huge assortment of old yarn and odds and ends yarns from a vast collection of mostly thrifted bags of yarn. Most all of what I am using is 4-ply worsted weight yarns like Red Heart Super Saver. I will note any changes and give you the best idea I can on what to use to make each pattern. Gauge isn’t important for most of these patterns. I will have a full list of all products used for each pattern at the start of that pattern. Hooks : Hook sizes will vary greatly for all of these patterns. I will note at the start of each pattern the
hook/hooks that I have used.
Stitch Glossary:
Chain: Ch Single Crochet: SC Inc Sc: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. – this is an invisible single crochet decrease Hdc: Half double crochet Dc: double crochet Tr: treble crochet Slip Stitch: sl st FO: finish off "Oh, Christmas tree, Oh, Christmas tree": Tree #1 Tree 1: Beginner Crochet. Only chain stitches and slip stitches used. For this first tree you will need 2 strands of green yarn. I have held two strands together for this example and used my K/6.5mm hook. One of the skeins of yarn was Red Heart Classic 3.5 oz/100g. This old skein must have been
made before they started putting yardage on the rolls. I paired another strand of green that had no wrapper and used the full skein of the 3/5oz RH yarn. It is a small skein. Do not be afraid on this pattern of running out of yarn because the last step with the loops is easily adjusted. I’ve also used 23" cardboard tree cone form from Hobby Lobby. These are typically expensive at about $9.99 each, but I bought my stash AFTER the holidays last year and got them 50% off so, tip: buy in January for next Christmas. You will also need your hot glue gun and maybe some liquid glue. You can use only your hot
glue gun, but I found it went a bit quicker if I did one row in hot glue and let it dry and then squirted on a bunch of liquid glue for several rows and wound them on and then set those rows in place by securing my work with more hot glue – this way every few rows you will have liquid glue drying between the rows of set up hot glue. An embroider needle might be helpful as well.
Okay, let’s get started on your first tree:
With your two strands of yarn and K hook, chain, chain, chain and keep on chaining….chain, chain, chain. I did not start attaching my chain to the tree form until was sure it would reach at least half way – YOU WILL NOT CUT
YOUR YARN AT ALL SO,
when you get to the place where you want to start adhering the chain to your form just pull up your loop so you have plenty of spare and go back to chaining when you get ready. Attach the beginning of your starting chain to the very bottom of the form. I used my two starting tails to tie the bottom row together after I made sure it was snug. After this first row was secure, I streamed a bit of liquid glue above that starting line and ran some more rows around. You want to work slow enough that you keep your chain positioned right side up and pull nice and firm, but not over tight as you go around. If you are using liquid
glue with hot glue as I have, put your finger over the work after a few rows and hold tight while you run a stream of hot glue and secure the next bit of green chain to hold it all tight. If you don’t do this your chain may "bounce back" as it dries and be loose. So, do a few rows in liquid glue, hold firm with finger, do a row in hot glue to set and secure and repeat. Alternatively, you can just hot glue all the way around. Just make sure to work in small sections and hold your chain so that the right-side stays facing out and doesn’t twist. Pull firm, but not over tight. WooHOOO! Now, you have the
base of your first Christmas tree. Now, you may decide to stop here. You might like how this looks just find and honestly if you use two very different colors of green or a green and metallic yarn or even add a strand of fun fur this might be decorative enough for you and you can stop here. You can even stop here and wind a strand of small led/battery operated lights on this. You can even stop here and add some beaded garland, ornaments, words, "snow" etc. The possibilities from this "base" tree are endless!! So, now. Stay here or move on to the loops. If you choose to stop here just cut your yarn and
hide those tails. But, if you are moving on to the loops DO NOT CUT. After you have done all the way up around the top start with a chain 10. Slip stitch at the base of your chain 10 and repeat. Chain 10. Slip stitch at the base of the chain 10 and repeat – repeat – repeat – it will seem like you will repeat forever! I kept on going until I ran out of yarn. You can choose to end early and have wide spaces between the loops. This is all up to you. You may even decide that you want bigger or smaller chains than a chain 10. Play with it and see what you like. After you get done with all your loops start winding. I wound at first a bit loose so I could
space out and then tighten my loops evenly. After getting them all on my tree I started at the top and pull them snug all the way around and repositioned them evenly. I didn’t need to secure this loop chain with any sort of adhesive – the loop chain was pulled tight enough that it stuck just fine to the other yarn underneath. The last step for me was to give the whole tree a good steam bath. Steaming my work is a personal preference, but what it does for 4-ply yarn – especially old 4-ply yarn is freshen it up and soften it a bit. It helps relax the fibers a little and it just looks so much nicer. If you have never
steamed your work before with an acrylic yarn you will be so surprised at the difference. And that is it! You have your first tree complete. Now, to make a tree farm….. "…and the stockings were hung by the chimney with care": Christmas Stocking Stocking: Beginner Friendly Crochet with full photo tutorial and easy stitches used. You will use single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc) and at the end you will be doing some front post and back post double crochet. If you are unfamiliar with this please search online for a good video tutorial. This is a nice size, big stocking. My two examples are approximately 10" wide by 25" long. I
have held two strands of yarn together for the entire stocking and used my K/6.5 mm hook. The work starts on the bottom/toe and works its way up the stocking. I have used different colors for the toe, heel and top, but you can also just work this piece without making those changes and you can also decide to make it more colorful by doing some stripe work. And wouldn’t a monogram or initial be cute? I have a whole set of Crochet Alphabet letters that you can do to add a personal touch to the stockings. I have used scrap yarns – about 10 leftover skeins/balls (5 per each stocking) – I have used mostly Red Heart Super Saver type yarns. Some of my yarn was newer (Red Heart with Love
in Dusty Grape) but some was older and vintage-like with no labels or old labels but all were 4- ply worsted weight yarns. If you are buying yarn for these stockings you will need probably most of a small skein for the main body and just some scraps for the toe and heel. You can do the top in the main body color or switch like I did. I work in mostly all spiral crochet most of the time and rarely ever join and chain up. This keeps my work from having joining seems and also "flows" for me where I can get into a nice rhythm. You can choose to count each round and join and chain if you prefer, but some parts
of my pattern are not written that way. You will see what I mean – this stocking is a "flow" piece. I worked the main body straight up until I ran out of yarn. I didn’t count rows or have a "stop" for that main upper part, but rather worked until I was mostly out of yarn and changed color on the back of my stocking. I have more about this in my pattern, but if you are a stickler for absolute row counts and equal stitches you may want to use a stitch marker and start counting in rows after you work the heel and start on the upper piece. Okay, so, let’s get started. Grab your 2-strands of yarn and your hook. (You can do this
pattern in a bulky weight #5 yarn single strand or even something else – just remember, if you use different
materials/weights your results may be different.)
Chain 2:
In your 1st chain (the second from your hook) make 8 hdc. Count back 8 if you need and find your first stitch to start the next round. **you will work over the tails from the beginning to tighten the middle of your work. Crochet over the tails all the way around this round and then pull them tight (see photos) In this first stitch only make 1sc and then 1 hdc (this first sc is just to keep there from being such a big "jog" up in height. Working in the spiral it won’t matter in the end and is the method I use) Now, make 2hdc in all the rest of the stitches around for a total of 16 stitches. Continue to work in the spiral. If you fear losing count, you’ll
want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end. Round 3: Photo above. (Make 1 hdc in next stitch, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (24) Round 4: (Make 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (32) Round 5: (Make 1 hdc in next 3 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (40) Round 6: (Make 1 hdc in next 4 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (48) -after doing the last hdc make about 3-4 sc for the same reason we did at the beginning. It helps eliminate your "jog" down and then join your main
color on this last stitch. Make the first part of the stitch in the toe color and then pull through the last part of the stitch with your new color. Tie ends in back of work to secure and then continue to crochet over the tails. Round 7: Single crochet in Back Loop Only (see photo above) (48) Rounds 8-~20: Hdc around. See photos below. (That is about 13 rows or 624 stitches if you are working in the spiral.) TIP: what I do is open the calculator on my phone and enter 624 and then start subtracting as I go. I usually count up about 40-70 stitches and then subtract from my total. That keeps me on tract without worrying about moving stitch counters or
what round I am on. I just "flow" and subtract until I am done. After all of those stitches are finished make 3-4 single crochet in the next 3-4 hdc stitches and DROP but DO NOT CUT your main color. You will come back and pick it up after you do the heel. You are now going to work in rows for a bit. So, now, attach your toe/heel color when you make your last stitch from the toe – pull the new color through to finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next stitch. Work 21 sc across the round and slip stitch in the next stitch. Do NOT chain, but turn your work and skip the slip stitch and single crochet together (sctog)
over the next two stitches and then work all the way across (17) until you get to the last two sc and then sctog those two last stitches. *the below photo shows the slip stitch that you skip over and sctog the next two – my hook is under the slip stitch. Miss that when you start the sctog. (19 sc) If you are unsure how to single crochet 2 stitches together you will find plenty of videos online but basically you insert hook into the space, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next space, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook – above left photo) and pull through all 3 loops. Chain 1 and turn. (right photo above),
[sctog, sc across the heel until you reach the last two stitches, sctog] repeat what is in brackets until you are left with only 8 sc. The last two rows of the heel before you break off your yarn are increase rows. Chain 1 and turn. Make 2 sc in the first stitch, sc in the next 6 crochet and then make 2 sc in the last stitch (10) stitch, sc in the next 8 crochet and then make 2 sc in the last stitch (12) Cut your tails and move over to the other side of the heel. Now, this is what your work should resemble. Attach your heel color/colors to the bottom of the heel right next to where you dropped your main color yarn
from earlier. You are going to sc evenly around the entire heel piece. After I was finished with this I had made 32 sc around the heel section. If you don’t have these exact numbers that is fine – you can adjust them later. (bottom left photo is what you should have now) – finish off that yarn. I just crochet over all my tails so there is no need to weave them in on this piece. Go back and pick up the MAIN color yarn that you dropped from earlier (bottom right photo) The next step is to crochet around the entire piece in your main color. You can choose either sc or hdc – this is largely up to you. I think I did sc
one round on my blue stocking and then hdc for the rest and 2 rounds of sc and then hdc on my pink stocking. BUT when you get to the upper corner on the HEEL piece (see photo to the left – the next 3 stitches after my hook) you will be either sc3tog (single crochet 3 together) or hdc3tog (half double crochet 3 together) on the upper 3 stitches on BOTH sides of the heel. This will "gather" them in a little for shaping. You will single crochet around the entire piece with a 3 sctog on both sides of the heel. See below photos for my sc3tog and the 3 stitches on the left side of the heel. (I had 53 stitches after
this) After you complete the entire round in either sc or hdc this is what it should look like: For this next round, you are either going to sc or hdc around again, but this time you will be making a sc3tog in the spaces where the heel meets the toe. You can see in the photos above where I am making my next sc3tog. In the right-side photo above my single spaces to the left of my hook are the 3 that are going to get sc3tog – the first photo above on the left is one side and the last photo is the other side. This helps again with shaping. See photo to the right -> you can see my 3sctog and how it makes a nice
curve. Since I was still working in a continuous spiral, my first decrease leg of this stitch on this round was actually the last stitch from the round before. It will really help your shaping if you can get exactly the 3 stitches in the center of where the heel and toe meet to be the ones that you decrease. So, work in either sc or hdc around, but make those other two sc3tog in the area where the toe and heel meet. After this round I had 49 stitches. You need to count your stitches after this round so you can get kind of with my stitch count now. So, if you are not at 49 stitches now, this next round is where you will adjust for that.
You want to have 48 stitches around when you finish this round. For my examples, I did one decrease on the back of the heel, but if you need to decrease more than that just do it evenly around the piece so you don’t get any puckering. The reason for the 48 stitches is the top rows/border – so, if you are not doing the post stitches to end the 48 isn’t really important. You are doing great! Okay, now this is the part of the pattern that I mentioned above where I just go…just crochet around and around and around – you can free flow this. There really is not any reason to worry about what round you are one or what number you are on
or anything! Just put on a good show, audiobook or whatever and go…crochet, crochet, crochet. Keep on going around and around and around until the leg part of your stocking is the length that you want it to be. The length of my examples from the heel section was about 12 inches. But, if you are going to be changing colors like I did for a top section don’t forget to think about that extra length. Whether you are making a top section or just going to finish off you want to be at the back side of the stocking – up from the heel – and if you are going to make a hanger chain some to make a hanger on the
back side. I crocheted around until I almost ran out of yarn and made sure to be in the back of my work before I joined my other two colors back ***remember what I usually do when working in hdc make about 3-4 sc before you change colors or finish off to blend in that jog. If you are adding a top border/section in your other color change color and continue. For the top section of my examples, I chained up 2 (not a stitch) and then did one double crochet border around. Join and chain up 2 (not a stitch) and in the next round I alternated 4 front post double crochet and then 4 back post double crochet around (this is the
reason you needed to have 48 stitches from above) Repeat the round above for as many rounds as you want. One the blue stocking I did two, but on the pink stocking I ran out of yarn and ended after just one alternating front post/back post rounds. The photo to the right shows the front post double crochet and the one below shows the back post double crochet. If you find this difficult, just do a few rows of double crochet – your stocking will still be fabulous! And don’t forget to chain a length of chain at the back to hang if you are doing that. My chain was about 15. And that is it! "Every wish, one and all, waiting under the tree": Gift
Bag #1 Gift Sack/Bag 1: Beginner Crochet. I have used only half double crochet (hdc) and double crochet (dc) and some chain stitches for this bag. For the tie I have used chains and my pompom maker. For this first gift bag, you will need 3 strands of yarn. I have held three strands together for this example and used my N/10mm hook. *you can use this same pattern and single or double strand with a small hook to make a smaller bag. My gift sack ended up about 16"x16" One of the skeins of yarn was Red Heart Super Saver 8oz/225g. I used most of this skein (about �) so you can plan your 3 skeins of yarn. This is a great scrap yarn project – if you run
out just grab another ball of yarn. These are the 3 skeins of yarn that I used: If you need more photos to help with the start, please see the stocking pattern above this one – we are going to start this exactly the same. Count back 8 if you need and find your first stitch to start the next round. **you will work over the tails from the beginning to tighten the middle of your work. Crochet over the tails all the way around this round and then pull them tight (see photos if you need above in the stocking pattern) In this first stitch only make 1sc and then 1 hdc (this first sc is just to keep there from being
such a big "jog" up in height. Working in the spiral it won’t matter in the end and is the method I use) Now, make 2hdc in all the rest of the stitches around for a total of 16 stitches. Continue to work in the spiral. If you fear losing count, you’ll want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end. Round 3: (Make 1 hdc in next stitch, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (24) Round 4: (Make 1 hdc in next 2 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat around (32) Round 5: (Make 1 hdc in next 3 stitches, make 2 hdc in the next stitch) repeat
around (40) Round 6: (Make 1 hdc in next 4 stitches, around (48) Round 7: (Make 1 hdc in next 5 stitches, around (56) Round 8: (Make 1 hdc in next 6 stitches, around (64) Rounds 9-18: Now, just like the above stocking pattern you are going to "flow" – you are going to start work going up. You will do no more increases, but we are going to do 10 rounds of 64 stitches – so, working in the spiral you are going to do 640 hdc all the way up/around. The photo shows what you should have at the end – add a single crochet border and you have a great basket! To make the final rows of the gift sack, you will do a few rows of decrease. You can
choose to still work in the spiral or join and chain 1. I usually spiral and then do a few sc when I am done and slip stitch in the next stitch and then continue. Round 19: (Make 1 hdc in next 6 stitches, make an hdc dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (56) Round 20: Hdc all the way around (56) Round 21: (Make 1 hdc in next 5 stitches, repeat around (48) Round 22: Hdc all the way around (48) Now, for Round 23 – after you joined/slip stitched – see bold note above – Chain 3 (counts as your first double crochet) and make a one double crochet (dc) in the next 3 stitches. (Chain 4 and skip four and make 4 more dc
in the next four stitches) *repeat around. Join to the top of the chain 3 space with a slip stitch when you get back to the beginning. Slip stitch in the next 3 dc and then slip stitch into the first chain 4 space. Chain 3 (counts as your first double crochet) and make 3 double crochet (dc) in the same space. (Chain 4 and skip four dc and make 4 more dc in the next chain 4 space) *repeat around. Join to the top of the chain 3 space with a slip stitch when you get back to the beginning. The last round is just a simple single crochet round. Finish off and weave in your end. The tie for my bag is a simple chain of 100. I had this leftover blanket yarn in these great
holiday colors and I pulled a skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Cranberry and my pompom maker out to finish up the pompom tie. *I have no idea why these two photos have such different colors – it the same things =D Now, weave your tie in and out between the spaces and you are finished! What a great, environmentally friendly, reusable gift bag and if you use up some old skeins of old yarn for this project that is even better! Wash and soak in some fabric softener -or however you tend to treat your yarn after getting done – and you will have a nice, soft gift bag for gift giving. Gnome for the Holidays
These gnomes were so much fun! They are quick and easy and I give you several modifications for you to adapt them to your taste. I work in continuous rounds for most all of my crochet and this pattern is no different. A note
on that:
Working in the CONTINUOUS Round:
*I do not join and chain, but continue to work in the next stitch. Use a stitch marker for this so you don’t lose your place. When you get back to the first stitch on your current round and are ready to start the next round you just place your first stitch of the next round into the first stitch of your previous round. You will have a seamless project when you are finished. For most of these gnomes I used a regular 4-ply worsted weight yarn and my H/5mm hook, but I crochet tight. You may need to use your 4mm/4.5mm hook if you crochet loose so that your stuffing materials will not show through. In addition to this, I have used some glue
(either fabric glue or your glue gun will do), marbles to weigh down the bottom, stuffing, some fur pieces/fuzzy yarn for "beards", and some pompoms.
Starting/Increasing:
Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook and work over your starting tail. Starting in the first sc make 2 sc in that stitch and in each stitch around. (12) *Still work over the starting tail. After getting done with all 12 sc for that round, pull the starting tail to cinch up the opening. You can now trim that tail or weave it in or just leave it if it will be on the inside of your work. You want to move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end. Round 3: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18) Round 4: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 5: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30) Round 6: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36) Rounds 7-16 (10 rounds) work with no increases – so, 36 stitches for each round = 360 stitches for working in the spiral. These next rounds start decreasing. Round 17: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (30) Rounds 18-20: sc in each stitch around (30) – that is 90 sc if working in the spiral. Round 21: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make an inv dec over the next two stitches) repeat
around (24) Rounds 22-24: sc in each stitch around – that is 72 stitches working in the spiral. *at this part I bagged up some marbles – the kind you can get from the $1 store into a little mesh baggie and put in the bottom to weight down and help the gnome sit easily. You will also want to start stuffing about now and stuff as needed as you work up. For the next rounds of decrease it is NOT necessary that you do invisible decreases – if you have been doing them – because they will be covered by the hat. Rounds 25: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make a dec over the next two stitches) repeat around
(18) Rounds 26-30: sc in each stitch around – that is 5 rounds of 18sc = 90 stitches if working in the spiral. Round 31: (Make 1 sc in next stitch, make a dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (12) check your top stuffing. Round 32-33: make one sc in each stitch around – that is 24 stitches if working in the spiral. Round 34: (dec over the next two stitches) repeat around (6) – cut yarn and sew top shut. The nose is a simple oval and just a few rounds. Chain 4. Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in the next chain. Make 5 sc in the last stitch and work around the other side of the chain with 1sc in the next chain and 4sc in the last chain. That
gives you 12 sc around your chain. Now, still working in the spiral do the following stitches for round 2: sc in the next 4 sc, 3sc in the next sc, sc in the next 5 sc, 3sc in the next sc, sc in the last sc. (16) Rounds 3-5 – work one sc in each stitch around – that is 16 sc per round or 48 sc if working in the spiral. When you are done slip stitch in the next and pull up a long tail to sew onto the head. Weave your yarn tail in and out so you can gather up the base of the nose a little and insert a small bit of stuffing. Don’t overstuff the nose. Cinch your yarn up a little and position on head
and sew on. I sewed mine between rounds 12-16. Stocking cap: use your I hook and 4-ply yarn. *I am still working in the continuous spiral like above for all of these rounds. Chain 2. Round 1: Single crochet 6 in the second chain from the hook. Rounds 2-5: sc in each stitch around (4 rounds x 6 sc =24sc) Round 6: Starting in the next sc, make 2 sc in that stitch, sc in the next, (2sc in the next, sc in the next) *repeat around (9) Rounds 7-12: sc in each stitch around (6 rounds x 9sc = 54sc) Round 13: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (12) Rounds 14-18: sc in each stitch around (6 rounds x 12sc =
72sc) Round 19: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (15) Rounds 20-23: sc in each stitch around (4 rounds x 15sc = 60sc) Round 24: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (18) Rounds 25-28: sc in each stitch around (4 rounds x 18sc = 72sc) Round 29: (Make 1 sc in next 2 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (24) Round 30: (Make 1 sc in next 3 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (30) Round 31: sc in each stitch around (30) Round 32: (Make 1 sc in next 4 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (36)
Round 33: sc in each stitch around (36) Round 34: (Make 1 sc in next 5 stitches, make 2 sc in the next stitch) repeat around (42) ***On the last stitch above join some fun fur yarn if you want for the last round. I used some fuzzy white yarn on the last round. Round 35: sc or hdc in each stitch around (42) – I did one row of hdc on my green gnome and 2 rows of hdc on my purple gnome. Finish off and weave in tail. You can now embellish your hat like you want. Add some bling, pompoms buttons etc. or leave plain. I secured my hat down with some fabric glue around the bottom so that it would not come off.
Also, 4-ply yarn can be "stiff" – I took my hat to my ironing board and steamed it to relax and soften the fibers to help it curl down and be soft. There is a big difference before and after steaming so give it a try if you’ve never done this part. Just hold your iron with steam setting hovering just over your hat and watch/feel it soften up. You can also stretch and maneuver the fabric while it cools to shape. My Sweet girl gnome here uses the exact same pattern as above, but on round 15 I changed to skin colored yarn and placed safety eyes on with 6 holes in between them after I completed round 24 on the body. As I mentioned above, she also has an extra hdc row on the end of her
hat and I attached some "tassel" hair to the back of her head under her hat. I had a few pompom kits that came with a round patch of fur and the white pompom but, I knew that I would not use them so I sewed the white pompom to the ends of the hats and am using the fur circles to make beards. I am also using this big tassel made with Red Heart Light and Lofty but Homespun yarn would also be super cute for this part. So, I glued the fur part onto the head as the beard and then sewed the nose just on top of that. Same for the giant tassel beard. "A House is Not a Home without a Gnome" Using the same pattern above, but
holding two strands throughout you can make this larger gnome. He is the one wearing my tassel beard. The other guys are around 9-10" but this one is around 13". For this pattern and my two strands of worsted weight yarn, I used my J/6.0 hook. If you find that difficult, try going up one size. I also added some simple double crochet arms and legs to this guy. For this type of arms and legs just chain the desired length you want and double crochet back along your chain. After you are finished sew them on. For the legs I have done two rows of double crochet and for the arms just one row. On the arms if you leave a tail before and after you can easily
just tie the arms on and then weave the ends into the body. Knot the ends of the arms and legs for "feet" and "hands" and you are finished. Cute, simple and quick. See the below photos of the arms and legs. For the legs, I make one long piece and then I fold it in half and sew under the body. If you prefer you can make individual pieces like the arms and sew on instead.
Pattern source: 12 Days Part 1.
This part builds the doll itself. If you only want one large Grinch rather than the whole set, the stand-alone 26-inch pattern is here: 26-Inch Grinch Amigurumi with Santa Coat & Hat.
